The water effectively blocks the movement of sewer gas from the sewer or septic system up to the sink and into the room. If you look under one of your sinks, you’ll see a U-shaped dipped section which includes a trap which holds water in the pipe. Waste is produced at toilets, sinks, and showers, and exits the fixtures through a “trap,” a dipped section of pipe that always contains water. Your DWV system helps to remove sewage from your house and regulates air pressure in the waste-system pipes to aid free flow. Check Your DWVĭWV is a sexy acronym for a very un-sexy topic: Drain, Waste, and Vent system. You can also flush the drain with boiling water. It should be obvious but make sure to throw the sludge into the trash (not back into the drain). Making sludge begone is pretty easy – grab a hair drain clog remover plastic strip at your local hardware store or search and buy online. If you run warm water and smell sewer, sludge is your problem. If you pull out the stopper and see a tangled hair mess, sludge is your problem. Most of the time, stink is from sludge on the stopper, drain cover, or top of the drain pipe. So what exactly is that poopy smell coming from your sink or shower drain? Sludge Begone Stench collector: accordion pipes capture sludge. You may need to tighten it (carefully, so as not to crack the sink) or remove it and apply more silicone or plumber's putty, along with Teflon tape on the threads.Poopy smells usually come from the toilet. If you find that it leaks after you tighten everything up, and you have water on top of the reducing washer on the tailpiece, it means your drain assembly isn't watertight against the sink. (I tried this first, then realized I didn't need all that vertical distance and could eliminate the extension tube.) If, for some reason, you need even more vertical distance, you can use an extension tube, which has a threaded slip-joint fitting on one end, and connect it between the wall tube and the J-trap. In this case, the 90-degree elbow didn't quite make it to the bottom of the tailpiece, so I had to add a coupling, attached to the elbow with a scrap piece of the wall tube I had cut off. Therefore, I connected the longer leg of the J-trap to the wall tube, to get more displacement down, so the connectors would have room to cover the horizontal distance on the way back up. My other vanity has greater horizontal distance and less vertical. (All the components pictured here are from Home Depot other stores have similar items). Use a reducing washer to adapt a 1 1/4" tailpiece to 1 1/2" drain piping. The other end connects to a 90-degree elbow to make the turn and cover the vertical distance. To close up horizontal distance, you can use another wall tube cut to the appropriate length, connected to the J-trap. In the above situation, the drain connection is several inches to the side of the tailpiece and slightly below it. The connectors you use depend on two factors: how far is the tailpiece horizontally from the drain connection, and how far above or below it? Use whichever one is suitable for your existing piping. There are two types of J-traps: one with a threaded slip-joint fitting on each end and a "repair" J-trap, with a slip-joint on the longer leg and a compression flange on the other. The flange typically connects to the short leg of the J-trap. Cut the long side if necessary, so it slides into the drain tube in the wall (make sure you have at least several inches in the wall drain). The first thing to do is come out of the wall with a wall tube (otherwise known as a quarter-bend wall tube). Therefore, I thought I'd post photos of what I did and the components I used. The photos posted above were really helpful, since many people may not know what connectors and adapters are available - as I didn't before replacing two vanities.
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